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A journey through the foothills of the Himalayas

A journey through the foothills of the Himalayas.jpg

If sitting on a recliner and looking out at the impossible bright blue sky or gazing at the snow capped mountains at a distance with a cup of tea, cookies and a delicious novel entices you, then join me on my holiday into the foothills of the Himalayas to Landour near Mussoorie. I stayed at Rokeby which was built in 1840 by Captain G.N. Cauthy which is one of the great landmarks of Landour.

If Mussoorie is "Queen of the Hills," then Landour must be the fairer princess, even though it contains some of the oldest settlements. British forces occupied this region of Garhwal following the Ghurkha wars in the second decade of the 19th century.

Colonel Frederick Young, an Irish officer in the East India Company army constructed the first permanent dwelling at Mullingar in 1825. Landour takes its name from Llanddowror, a small town in Wales. In 1827, it became a convalescent depot for British troops suffering from malaria and other tropical diseases. Those who did not survive are buried in the cemetery on the north side of the hill.

At the beginning of the twentieth century, a British Military Hospital was established and remained open until 1947. The hospital buildings currently house the Defense Ministry's Institute of Technology Management. Sisters' Bazaar acquired its name from the nursing sisters who lived nearby the hospital. Some the other early buildings include St. Paul's church, built in 1840, and the original Landour Cantonment Post Office at Char Dukan. An old bridal trail, which circles the three summits of Landour ridge, is known as the chukkar and became motorable in the late 1950s.

The house and two acre estate are situated slightly above and to the east of St. Paul's Church and the old cantonment parade ground, which is now Char Dukan. Like many houses in Mussoorie, its name is taken from the writings of Sir Walter Scott, whose book-length poem describes heroic battles near the original Rokeby Castle in England.

Several years after it was built, the house came into the possession of Lt. Col. Reilly, who also owned Ralston, another residence in Mussoorie. In 1878, Reilly mortgaged both properties for Rs. 25,000 to Frederick 'Pahari' Wilson, a controversial adventurer and entrepreneur, who was the inspiration for Rudyard Kipling's classic story, "The Man Who Would Be King".

Since then Rokeby exchanged hands and was used as a guest house throughout the rest of the 20th century. Today, Rokeby has been carefully restored to its original glory. This heritage building is resplendent with character in its elaborate brick arches and niches, intricate stone walls, real wood doors and beams, and cozy replaces. Nestled in the foothills of the Himalayas, the traditions of bygone years – where colonial officers, renegade soldiers of fortune and pious miss saibs lived under one roof–can still be felt. An air of mystery beckons visitors.


Each room in Rokeby Manor has its own unique character, having been restored to its original 19th century décor. Rooms are located throughout the Manor between the main house and the tea garden. Their luxurious and charming suite has been designed in a Victorian style with a cozy fireplace.

One can enjoy idyllic views of the valley and the tea garden from your own private balcony – a perfect setting for a Himalayan holiday. Rooms have been decorated in quaint English country style with traditional wooden beams and inviting nooks and corners. These are the only rooms located on the first floor of Rokeby Manor and have breathtaking views of the valley.

Emily’s, a homely dining room with scenic surroundings overlooking the valley. Serves breakfast, lunch and dinner. The menu has a mouthwatering selection of Indian and Continental dishes and is open from 06:30 am till midnight. Dining on the terrace, under a moonlit sky, is an ideal for a romantic dinner or enjoy a hot cuppa accompanied by cake in the freshness of the Tea Garden.

While on your foothills holiday tour of the Himalayas, those who’d like to wander off the beaten track and experience the beauty of nature, trails or scenic drives can be arranged from the property. Walk the forest trail to the top of the Witches Hills or try the longer Flag Hill where beautiful rhododendron is in full bloom and if you are lucky the most excellent guide will point out a barking deer.

I would also recommend visiting Pepperpot and Pepperpot Cave, a mountain so named because the squareness of its top resembles a pepper pot or shaker. Located to the east of Mussoorie, it is a leisurely day hike of around 8 kms. A nice place to see spectacular views of the surrounding hills, valleys and the distant snows. Also, a good area to meet up with some of the local fauna and birds.

Don’t leave without visiting Sanji, the corn village, less than 2 hours away. Sanji is like nothing you have seen before with bright orange corn cobs handing to dry in bunches from each ancient house and vast fields of mustard swaying gently in the wind.

The village continues to Happy Valley a Tibetan Settlement that houses the Tibetan Temple, the first ever built by the Dalai Lama in 1960. But the best bit is that you don’t need a vehicle if you are fond of walking. Walking is hardly like dodging crowds, potholes and cars like in the city.

Whether it is a Himalayan holiday or any other trip, it’s incomplete without incredible SHOPPING!!!! They have put together the best shopping haunts in Mussoorie for bits & bobs and souvenirs to take home.

For more information about our unique and tailor-made holidays into the foothills of the Himalayas please contact us.

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