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Rajasthan – Luxury and adventure holidays off the beaten track

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Rajasthan is a superb holiday destination where you can remain in the lap of luxury and yet adventure into rural areas to enjoy the colourful villages, deserted temples, dramatic wilderness and historic forts and palaces.

On one of my recent trips to rural Rajasthan I took the challenge do something off the beaten track, and totally un-touristy. I wanted to try and reinvent Rajasthan, which is probably one of the most popular destinations in India.

On my previous visits to this colourful region I had already “ticked the box”, as they say, by visiting the vibrant city of Jaipur, the majestic Mehrangarh Fort at Jodhpur and the romantic city of Udaipur. To save time I did use some internal flights.

However on this occasion I was eager to do it differently. I was really looking forward to doing a bit of cycling and walking with an intention to see a different side to Rajasthan.

A luxurious beginning in Jodhpur

Though I did set out to be adventurous, my trip began with a stay at a beautiful nine suite boutique hotel not very far from Jodhpur – Mihir Garh. The luxury hotel built like a fort seems to emerge from the desert and complements the rugged beauty of the land.

The small suites have been tastefully designed by a talented team and every detail has been taken care of.  The ground floor suites have their own plunge pool and personal courtyard, where as the suites on the first floor have an exclusive open air Jacuzzi along with a private terrace.

The soft, stylish furnishings have been bought from the local region alone and the owners have commissioned the village women of Khandi and Haji to lovingly create the fireplaces using an age-old technique of cow dung and clay! From paintings to curtain holders, every little thing has been specially designed for this majestic fort.

During my stay I was really delighted to notice that there is a lot to do at Mihir Garh. There are village safaris and culinary demonstrations on offer but I felt the best were the Royal picnics that were reminiscent of a bygone era. 

Imagine being driven in camel carts or horse carriages to a secluded spot in the wilderness where a lavish al fresco breakfast awaits you. The ornate tent, the food and wine laid upon crisp white covers, the courteous attendants, the live music orchestrated by the gentle ripples of the lake, all come together to create a memory worthy of being cherished. 

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Travelling in Rajasthan

After spending a good few days in the lap of luxury, I drove to a little-known village of Bera. Having travelled extensively through the country, I can confidently say that it is far more interesting travelling by road. One can see the colourful villages and deserted temples, and stay at small characterful merchant houses or hunting lodges - a superb experience.

I spent two nights at a camp in the heart of an untrammelled wilderness, Jawai Leopard Camp. Here in the landscape of craggy granite formations, caves and scrub, leopards roam wild and free. One can track the leopards on jeep safaris with specialist guides, something that I did early one morning.

There is an abundance of heritage in this area. The camp makes for comfortable access to the airy citadels of Kumbalgarh Fort, now a UNESCO World Heritage Site.

For those still thirsting for monuments, the sculpted temples at Ranakpur are only an hour’s drive away from Camp. Two of Rajasthan’s most visited destinations; Udaipur and Jodhpur are equidistant from Jawai and easily accessible by car.

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Ranakpur

The ancient temples of Ranakpur are in the vicinity and this was the moment I was waiting for. I decided to reach the temples on cycle. The 55 kms ride west of Bera was beautiful and took me through mixed landscape of pasture, hills and forests and traditional villages.

I arrived at Ranakpur to spend a night at the exclusive all-suite Mountbatten Lodge that shares a boundary with the Kumbhalgarh wildlife sanctuary. The ride was very enjoyable, however I was a bit tired. I suspect I had become accustomed to the comforts at Mihir Garh and Jawai!

After visiting the Jain temples I decided to take it easy and enjoy a Gin & Tonic as I had planned a 90 kms ride from Ranakpur to Kumbhalgarh the following day.

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Kumbhalgarh

I started early to avoid the heat, riding through traditional shepherd villages to arrive at Kumbhalgarh for lunch. After a bit of relaxation, I decided to trek up the Kumbhalgarh Fort.

Kumbhalgarh Fort, built during the 15th Century and then enlarged further in the 19th Century, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site (under the Hill Forts of Rajasthan) which is now open to the public. Kumbhalgarh has over 38km of walls surrounding the fort, and is thought to be the second-longest continuous wall the world, shorter only than the Great Wall of China.

After visiting the Fort, I was met by my cheerful driver who transferred me to Lake Pichola, just outside of Udaipur city.

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Lake Pichola

The icing on the cake was my stay at Taj Lake Palace - an exotic white building on an island in the lake. It featured in the Bond movie Octopussy, as locals never tire of telling you – there are nightly screenings of the film in the city’s cafés.

Even today, rising out of the Lake Pichola, the Taj Lake Palace and Udaipur evoke a sense of magic and mysticism. The floating palace is a dream of white marble and mosaic glistening in the moonlight, reminiscent of the most beautiful tourist cliché in the world; the Taj Mahal. 

Conceived in romance, the palace was built in 1746 by Maharana Jagat Singh II, 62nd successor to the royal dynasty of Mewar – believed to be descendants of the Sun God. Set against the backdrop of the majestic Aravalli Hills on one side of the lake, and regal Rajasthan palaces on the other, the Taj Lake Palace spreads across a four-acre island – an almost surreal vision in marble.

Like the honored companions of the Maharana of days past, all guests enjoy the kind of luxurious living until then reserved only for the official of the highest courts. Delicately restored pavilions, cusped archways, magnificent carvings, opulent guest rooms and suites adorned with ornate glasswork, bohemian crystal lights and intricate miniature paintings remain a testimony to courtly love.

Scenic courtyards with blossoming lawns, lily-filled ponds, gush fountains and indoor spaces filled with period pieces and extravagant embellishments will transport you into a world of fantasy, romance and magic.

So, for anyone looking for adventure and luxury off the beaten track, my suggestion would be to immerse yourself in Rajasthan, do it in style, and enjoy a wonderful, eclectic, adventurous and satisfying holiday.

If you're interested in cycling holidays in India, click here to read our blog about cycling in Central India >

Images of Taj Lake Palace courtesy of Taj Hotels.

Images of Jawai Leopard Camp and surrounding area courtesy of SUJAN Luxury.

Images of Mountbatten Lodge courtesy of RARE India.

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