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What is the best way for you to experience a holiday in India’s remote Madhya Pradesh?

Chinmay Vasavada By Chinmay Vasavada
01 Jun 2018
Kaafila campfire at night  in Madhya Pradesh

When I think of India, my home, I think of euphoric festivals, buzzing markets, vibrant costumes, delicious food, regal architecture, beautiful wildlife and peaceful countryside. More than anywhere else, India’s real charm and character lies in the hidden hinterlands and therefore far from the endless rush for modernisation. I strongly feel that those who want to discover the real India should focus on this aspect of the country.

For many of us today, trapped in the quotidian reality of a shrinking and globalising world, it is becoming more and more difficult to rediscover the romance, thrill and freedom of self-contained journeyings to remote and far flung corners of the Earth; to all the vanished Xanadu’s of our imagination!

The central highlands of Madhya Pradesh, forming a hard knot in the belly of India, is one of my favourite regions in the country for a quintessential Indian experience. This region harbours some of the greatest natural and man-made treasures of the subcontinent, many of which remain virtually unknown to the outside world.


  • Countryside and cart in Maikal Hills, Madhya Pradesh

The best-kept secrets of Madhya Pradesh offer a truly untrodden and remote experience in rugged jungle-clad hills and lush valleys which shelter the remains of magnificent ancient forts, atmospheric medieval towns and colourful tribes who still cling to their age-old customs. There are also undiscovered wildlife sanctuaries and all are well off the tourist trail, thus offering the joy of personal discovery and exclusive access that give added rewards for the intrepid traveller.

The best way to experience these remote treasures is from Kaafila’s private nomadic camps. These are small, stylish and truly mobile tented camps, set up just for you and your party. The best time to explore Madhya Pradesh is from November through to February. (In the summer months of June to August the camps move to Ladakh and Kashmir).

These unique camps will take you to exclusive off-the-beaten-track destinations while ensuring access to clean, comfortable and safe accommodation with delicious food prepared using the freshest locally sourced produce.


  • Kaafila camps lounge tent  in Madhya Pradesh

Four locations have currently been identified in Central India and I am very excited about the two newest offerings: the Maikal Hills and the Kuno-Palpur Wildlife Sanctuary. These, together with the camps near Kalinjar Fort and Chanderi, offer a great mix of culture, history, architecture and wildlife in a truly untrodden experience…

Kalinjar Fort

Kaafila’s expert guides accompany guests to one of India’s greatest hill forts. Kalinjar has been settled for over 2000 years and contains the countless remains and ruins of the centuries. The Neelkanth Mahadev temple has stunning bas-relief sculptures of Shiva and the giant ‘dancing’ statue of Bhairava.


  • Carvings in Kalinjar in Madhya Pradesh

Various other palaces, temples and water tanks are scattered in romantic isolation amongst the scrub jungle. Today the fort stands virtually forgotten, isolated and decaying picturesquely in its jungle fastness.

Apart from Kalinjar there is also the fort of Ajaigarh which can only be accessed on foot by a steep path, but is well worth the climb! For those who enjoy nature and geology a full day walk can be arranged to take in the dramatic landscape marked by sheer escarpments, flat-topped hills and deeply incised valleys. The contrast between the lush green valleys below and the dry scrub forest of the plateau is interesting and the views are just stunning.


  • Ajaigarh  in Madhya Pradesh

The campsite is set up in an attractive secluded spot looking out onto fields and forested hills that still support a fair amount of wildlife including blue bull antelope, wild boar, sloth bear, sambar deer, jackals and leopards. Birdlife, especially during the winter, is diverse and abundant.


  • Chanderi fort by the river in Madhya Pradesh


The ancient town of Chanderi is awash with historic monuments that stand witness to the tumultuous but enriching history of the past 1000 years. The town is a veritable index of medieval north Indian architecture stretching from the time of the Imperial Guptas of the 4th century AD to the advent of the British in the early 19th century.


  • Chanderi arches  in Madhya Pradesh

Yet, today, Chanderi is still a bustling, thriving market town overlooked by the remains of its magnificent past whilst remaining home to some of the most beautiful hand-woven textiles in India.

Modern India is unmindful of historical heritage but, as you enter the walled town of Chanderi, there is a haven of medieval architecture still in everyday use – old mansions, temples, mosques, shrines, serene step-wells, ceremonial gateways and bustling bazaars. It can be crowded but it is wonderfully evocative.


  • Chanderi markets in Madyha Pradesh

Maikal Hills

The Maikal Hills are the last refuge of the authentic Baiga tribes – an indigenous people who still retain their traditions in the face of the myriad pressures exerted by India’s rapidly changing social and economic landscape.


  • Local tribe in the Maikhal Hills in traditional dress, performing and drumming

The cult of Bewar – shifting agriculture – used to be central to the local way of life that the British and Indian governments have banned, supposedly for the protection of timber. Today the Baiga live in ‘settled’ villages in some of the most picturesque landscapes in Central India.

While some of the younger generation are abandoning the carefully tended long hair of the men and the intricate tattooing of the women that are the identity of the Baiga, enough still retain these and other traditional fashions which make our travels in their country a unique opportunity to experience the lifestyles of a people whose origins are lost in pre-history.


  • Mother in the tribe in the Maikhal hills in Madhya Pradesh

The campsite is stunningly located at the edge of a shallow escarpment looking out over a serene mountain landscape, giving a longed-for sense of isolation from the real world that many of us search for on explorations such as this.

Kuno-Palpur Wildlife Sanctuary

The Sanctuary lies in the arid north western reaches of Madhya Pradesh, separated from Rajasthan and the legendary Ranthambhore Tiger Reserve by the waters of the Chambal River. Once part of the hunting grounds of the erstwhile princes of Gwalior, the fort and river - the two main landmarks of this sanctuary - give the place its name.


  • Central India - Madhya Pradesh - Kuno-Palpur Sanctuary bear scratching tree

Identified and intensely managed to create an alternative home for the Asiatic lions from Gir in Gujarat (this is still to happen!), the sanctuary boasts a high prey density. There are therefore healthy populations of leopard, crocodile, hyena, civet, fox and small cats, the occasional tiger as well as vast tracks of pristine and unencroached woodland and grassland. Most importantly there is almost no tourism.

Here the focus is on walking in the beautiful surroundings, watching the birdlife and immersing yourself in the remote wilderness of Madhya Pradesh.


  • Fox in the Kuno Palpur Sanctuary  in Madhya Pradesh

The Kaafila camp at Kuno is set on a raised field on the banks of the Kuno River right at the edge of the sanctuary. The deep waters of the river adjacent to the camp site make it an ideal place to scan for crocodiles and river dolphins.

In each of these locations the camp is set up exclusively with a maximum of 4 tents. The destinations can be easily slotted into longer itineraries or it is possible to combine two destinations with a two or three night stop in between at a comfortable hotel or lodge that can be planned to seriously complement the overall experience.


  • Sleeping tent at Kaafila Camp in Madhya Pradesh

As the purpose of travel is, in some sectors, increasingly being defined by modern frills some of us still yearn for a more intrepid and immediate access to unknown treasures that may shun phone and internet coverage – the true measure of remoteness in our digital world! For those who enjoy exploring the great outdoors, Kaafila offers an unparalleled experience in some really remote areas which are completely off the tourist trail.

Contact me for more information about exploring India's remote treasures.


Images courtesy of Kaafila Camps

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