A cultural road trip through southern Morocco

Riad Tarabel is the kind of smart Marrakech address a good friend might whisper into your ear, a place whose elegance is expressed through restraint rather than ostentatiousness. Hidden in the Medina’s labyrinth, its mood is unmistakably French-colonial-meets-Moroccan, but in the softest, most sophisticated way. Antique trunks, vintage photography and a palette of creams, greys, and barely-there blues make it feel more like a private residence than a hotel. Spa treatments take place in serene, candle-lit rooms where argan oil and rose water linger gently on the skin. By evening, dinners are arranged in lantern-lit courtyards.

Clinging to a hillside in the ancient Berber village of Azrarag, La Maison des Arganiers is a traditional white-washed shepherd’s douar, sensitively re-imagined and offering breathtaking views of the Argan Valley from its terraces. Exposed stone interiors, elaborately carved wooden doors and powder-blue and beige soft fabrics create a wonderfully inviting atmosphere. After a day immersing yourself in local Berber culture, return for a hammam scrub and a cold glass of rosé overlooking the argan tree groves, before tucking into a delicious candle-lit Moroccan dinner.

Surrounded by burbling irrigation channels and pomegranate orchards in one of Morocco’s most beautiful palmeraies, La Maison de l’Oasis in Tighmert isn’t really a house in the traditional sense. Rather, it is two separate rammed-earth pavilions, each with one or two bedrooms, a spacious bathroom and an outdoor terrace. Black-and-white photos, ethnic stencil paintings and camel-hair awnings abound, evoking a timeless Africa. It’s a place for daydreaming by the pool, slow conversation-filled dinners and reclining on blankets among the palms to watch a classic movie. You won’t want to leave.

Located where southern Morocco’s desert plains meet the first curve of the Saharan dunes, Acacia Camp is a magical end-of-the-world retreat designed for travellers who appreciate the kind of stillness and solitude only the desert can offer. Offering a rare blend of refinement and wilderness, the camp feels more like a private sanctuary than a temporary shelter, with crisp linens, flickering lantern light and a silence so deep it seems to have texture. Meals are served en plein air, accompanied by a crackling fire and the shifting colours of the dunes as they fade into a night thick with constellations.

La Maison Rouge is a beautifully restored local house located within a rust-red desert canyon near the village of Awju with sweeping valley views. The comfortable rooms blend traditional Moroccan and modern design touches, from intricate wickerwork to black and white photographs and heavy chests made of rich leather and dark wood, giving the place an Old World, colonial air. As with all the Memory Road properties, the food is delicious and authentic, using regional ingredients like alfalfa bakoula, pomegranate vinegar and date caramel. It’s a fabulous place to relax, up on the rooftop with a glass of wine in hand watching sunset colours streak the sky or enjoying a palm-shaded breakfast by a trickling stream.

Maison Tizkmoudine, located within an abandoned village being renovated by the Global Heritage Fund, offers an extraordinary glimpse into the heart of Moroccan ancestral culture and the very essence of the immersive hospitality we love. There is no electricity, and rooms are softly lit by lanterns, with a wood-burning stove to keep things warm in winter. Furnishings are made by talented artisan craftswomen from the village. Days invite walks between villages, exploring mountain paths, visiting local homes and markets, learning traditional cooking, or simply sitting with the changing light. It is an intimate, grounded stay, and a rare and wonderful opportunity to forge meaningful connections with the local community.

Morocco’s most storied and romantic retreat, Dar Ahlam is a palliative against pretty much anything. Tucked into the oasis of Skoura on the eastern side of the Atlas, this intimate, 19-room riad blends traditional kasbah architecture with understated luxury: think clay walls, carved cedar ceilings and soft rugs. Rooms, each uniquely appointed, offer panoramic views of swaying date palms, while courtyards, terraces and a gorgeous swimming pool invite languid afternoons beneath the Moroccan sun. Delicious cuisine from slow-cooked tagines to fragrant pastries are all served with effortless grace. If you are after privacy, solitude and a deep sense of place, Dar Ahlam does not disappoint.

While completely different in style to its famous big sister in Marrakech, the Royal Mansour in Casablanca is no less lavish, no less a beacon of solid-gold service. With a slick and polished Art Deco vibe, it is unquestionably the smartest address in this most intriguing of cities. With all the amenities you could possibly hope for, including world-class dining and a fabulous spa, it’s a place to wallow in bygone opulence and congratulate yourself on your excellent taste.