Also nicknamed ‘The Lake of Stars’ because of the reflecting lanterns that fishermen use at night on their wooden boats, Lake Malawi is a peaceful spot teeming with aquatic life. Laid-back lodges, small hotels, friendly locals and simple tasty cuisine all make Lake Malwai a welcome and inviting spot at the end of a safari.
Relax at Kaya Mawa, Likomo Island
My time here is spent at Kaya Mawa on Likomo Island, a tranquil spot in the middle of Lake Malawi. First opening its doors in 2004, Kaya Mawa was described by the Wall Street Journal as ‘the most relaxing beach holiday in the least likely destination’. Since then it has been listed as one of the ‘Most Romantic Places in the World’ by Conde Nast Traveler and the ‘Leading Hotel in Malwai 2020’ by the World Travel Awards.
A chic beach haven in a very African setting, Kaya Mawa is the perfect destination for families, with plenty of fish and birdlife, but no crocodile or hippo to worry about! However, it also suits honeymooners and older couples so everyone is happy here.
The birdlife around the lodge is prolific, especially in the early morning. I spot green-backed herons, fish eagles, paradise flycatchers and weavers making a racket as they fly from the lake shore to the baobab and raffia palm trees that dominate the surroundings.
Kaya Mawa is a tranquil retreat on Likomo Island.
The infinity pool offers magnificent ocean views.
"As it is mango season, I have it all - gorgeous views, dappling shade, food on tap and a glass of chilled white wine."
A Five-Star Robinson Crusoe Experience:
Inspired by Swahili decor, the accommodation has been designed with an artistic eye. Think beached wooden decks, faded antiques, turquoise window frames and white bead and glass ‘curtains’ to separate spaces. White raffia and cane furniture with bright cushions invite you to rest and relax, whilst bean bag chairs on the beach and swing sun loungers all add to the no-need-to-wear-shoes vibe.
Choose from beautiful couples’ rooms with sweeping views of the lake, a ‘Honeymoon House’ with its own infinity pool and deck or private family houses on the beach with expansive outdoor lounging and dining areas. Each house has a different location and layout, some with plunge pools and others with private beaches.
Explore the pristine waters of Lake Malawi.
Watch the sky changing colour from the main lounge.
Visit St Peter’s Cathedral in Likoma.
Laze on the beach while enjoying a picnic with a spectacular lakeside view.
Enjoy a massage under the starry skies. (Photos: ©Green Safaris)
Watersport Adventures:
If lying on the beach is not for you, then there are a myriad of other activities included in your stay from paddle boarding and sailing to birding and kayaking. Beyond the water, it’s worth visiting the celebrated St Peters Cathedral, located in the centre of Likoma town. This magnificent piece of architecture is one of Africa’s largest churches.
I decide to take a wooden dhow trip from the end of my room onto the lake. My guide stops occasionally along the lakeshore where children swim out to see us and we watch the fishermen coming back with their haul. Afterwards, I spend a few hours on the golden sands under a thatch-topped hammock being served ice-cold G&Ts by the discreet waiters – an ideal spot to watch the dhows sail past and see the local people coming down to wash their plates whilst the children splash in the water.
The island is dotted with huge baobab trees and on my second day I find a super shady spot under a mango tree right on the beach. As it is mango season, I have it all – gorgeous views, dappling shade, food on tap and a glass of chilled white wine. I was sorely tempted by the watersport options, but that mango tree was just too tempting! Oh, I did finally do something – each room has its own set of flippers and snorkels, so a refreshing dip and snorkelling straight from the beach ended the day before sunset.
To sum up my stay here, Kaya Mawa is friendly, small and chic. This is the sea but without seaweed, sharks, salt and stingrays! It is crystal clear turquoise waters, a remote hideaway, cichlids of every rainbow colour, warm weather all year, beachside bliss and a perfect relaxing getaway.
Looking to follow in Kate's footsteps?