Covering a vast area of south-western Ethiopia, the remote Omo Valley is a cultural melting pot of ethnic tribes living on the lowlands surrounding the mighty Omo River. These tribes have origins, cultural practices and beliefs all distinct from one another and maintain their traditional way of life despite the encroachments of the modern world.
I recently had the opportunity to explore the Omo Valley with expert local guide Lale, who has spent years building trust with the local tribes and has garnered access not usually granted to visitors. He enabled us to spend time with the local people in a sensitive and respectful manner, staying at his tented camp and fly camping on river banks along the way – an incredible adventure!
My Experiences in the Omo Valley
My travels in the Omo Valley have differed significantly. Many years ago, my first visit was along one of the main tourist routes, and whilst it was fascinating and certainly eventful and unforgettable, my interactions felt slightly scripted and not entirely authentic.
So I was delighted to recently have the opportunity to explore a lesser-trodden area of the Valley, where the tribes are steadfast in their traditional way of life and rarely see an outsider, yet are welcoming and were most definitely as curious about us as we were about them.
Dassanech Tribe
We arrived in the Omo Valley region and spent a night at Lale’s tented camp before heading out into the vast expanses of the Omo Valley. We travelled deep into the Omo region to meet the Dassanech tribe, who live in the most southerly part of the valley along the edges of the Omo River and in the delta region of Lake Turkana. Along the way we explored the delta for birdlife – which was abundant – and also saw many crocodiles.
We were privileged to visit during a time of celebration for the Dassanech tribe when they were congregating near the banks of the Omo River, and be able to witness one of their ceremonies. We arrived near sunset as the men were gathering, adorned in ochre and white paints, with plumes of ostrich feathers for their hair and wild animal skins on their backs. We watched them dancing and chanting from one family hut to the next, gathering more and more men. The women followed with their pleated and beaded skirts.
The chanting was mesmerising; the feathers swaying, feet stomping, and the atmosphere built until it was palpable. The entire village was moving as one, around and around, swaying and immersed in the ceremony. Then, as the sun set, the movement suddenly stopped, the families dispersed and home fires were lit.
Lale Birwa, the owner of Lale’s Camp, has built strong relationships with the local tribes. (© Lale’s Camp)
Meet unique tribes such as the Hamar on your travels in the Omo Valley. (© Lale’s Camp)
The Omo River meandering through the valley (© Lale’s Camp)
Relax in the shade of the riverside trees at Lale’s Camp.
Seek the Pel’s fishing owl on your boat journey down the Omo River.
The Karo Tribe
The Karo people came to visit our camp one afternoon and showed us their body paintings. The men helped to paint each other in white clay, using stripes, spots and zig zag patterns, and the women and children painted each other using more colour. The patterns have no meaning and are instead according to their own preferences, and are for ceremonies and parties.
A few days later we walked to the Karo village in the afternoon, arriving to find the entire village was dancing. They all had their faces and bodies painted and invited us to watch them dance and perform. Some dances were for the men and were to show how high they could jump, whereas other dances allowed the ladies to dance flirtatiously and get the men’s reactions. We stayed until nightfall and then walked back to camp for dinner.
The Mursi People
The following day we travelled down river by boat for two hours to a fly camp which had been set up for us on the riverbank. En route we saw a small village of the Kwegu tribe on the banks, and looked for wildlife. The riverbanks have lush vegetation despite the semi-arid surrounding landscape, and we saw many birds amongst the long roots hanging down the steep riverbanks – a highlight for me was spotting the Pel’s fishing owls.
We stayed in the fly camp for three days and were fortunate to meet some people of the Mursi tribe who had walked sixteen hours from their village to visit! The Mursi are one of the most unique tribes of the Omo and it was a wonderful experience to spend time with them and learn about their culture.
The women use scarification and lip plates to modify their bodies in various ways according to their preference. They have very few possessions except for a blanket which they wear as clothing and sleep on as a blanket at night, and a lip plate if they choose to use one.
We were lucky to hear the Mursi singing and dancing together privately one night after we had all gone to bed. The following day, we sat with the women in the camp for a while and they were deeply curious about us. They asked about our western clothes, which they inspected, as well as our hair, hands and feet. One was fascinated by my sunglasses and tried them on for a while, a stark contrast to her traditional lip plate. I showed the women a book about the various Omo tribes. They had never seen one before and found it fascinating.
That evening we took a boat ride up the river and watched the cattle coming down to drink in the dust.
I met some wonderful women from the Mursi Tribe who were very curious about our clothes.
We slept out under the stars in fly camps along the river.
Planning Your Own Adventure in the Omo Valley
Would I recommend this trip to the Omo Valley?
Yes, this is a key part of a holiday to Ethiopia for those seeking a deep insight into the lives of traditional tribes, and who value the privilege of travelling to remote places and having experiences that few other visitors can achieve.
This is a journey for the adventurous though, as you sleep in various fly camps as part of your travels. These are very basic with fly nets under the stars and short drop loos. For those with adventure in their souls this can be a highlight of the journey! Just to know that you are in the middle of nowhere, with no sounds around you except for bats flitting overhead, was a thrill for me.
When is the best time to visit the Omo Valley?
The best times of year for the Omo Valley are October and November (when it is great to combine the Bale Mountains with your visit) and in May through to August (which is also wonderful for walking in the Gheralta Mountains to see the cliff churches).
How can you extend your safari in the Omo Valley and in wider Ethiopia?
After spending a few days with Lale, you can extend your stay in the Omo Valley by heading even further off the beaten track with my dear friend Graeme Lemon, one of the very best private guides in Africa. He has access to a private region of the Omo that has only recently become open to visitors. Here you can meet different tribes with their own distinct traditions and garner an even deeper understanding of the region. There is the opportunity to spot unique endemic wildlife here too, particularly for those interested in birding.
For those that would instead like to explore wider Ethiopia, a helicopter safari is a thrilling way to travel, sweeping you across breath-taking landscapes and landing in cherry-picked locations. Explore bucket-list sights such as Lalibela with its rock-hewn churches, take a picnic near a towering waterfall in the Simien Mountains, explore Gondar’s medieval castle, search for the endemic and endangered Ethiopian wolf in the Bale Mountains, or head to the Danakil Depression to see the sulphur lakes and Erta Ale volcano.
For more information or to discuss planning your own extraordinary safari to Ethiopia, please do feel free to get in touch.
