I recently returned from a wonderful two-week safari adventure in South Africa. Having last visited when I was 18, I found it fascinating to see this captivating country through a new lens—and I can safely say it was even better than I remembered.
An Exhilarating Horseriding Experience in the African Bush
After landing in Johannesburg on an overnight flight, my journey begins with a comfortable three-hour drive to my first stop: Ant Africa Safaris. Nestled within 12,500 acres of private Waterberg bushveld, Ant’s is a nature lover’s paradise, offering close encounters with wildlife on foot, horseback, or game vehicles. The reserve boasts three lodges: Ant’s Nest, Ant’s Hill, and the latest addition, Bushwillow. Each lodge offers something unique, but all blend beautifully into the natural surroundings.
I’m staying at Ant’s Hill. Built on the edge of a cliff with breathtaking views across the Waterberg, I’m immediately made to feel at home with a welcome G & T and time to relax in my incredible cottage known as ‘Hideaway’. Just a few minutes’ stroll from the main lodge, I am greeted by a huge four-poster bed, a private plunge pool and the most amazing sunken bathtub. I have my own minibar, a waterfall shower inside, whilst outside are mesmerising views over the valley. This private and secluded sanctuary in the heart of nature is absolute bliss, and I confess to indulging in several more luxurious baths than strictly necessary over the next few days!
After a quick rest, I meet one of my guides, Jenika and her dog Kudu, who takes pole position in the front seat as we drive to meet the other guests from their afternoon ride for sundowners. Within five minutes, I spot giraffe and zebra as we make our way to a beautiful hilltop location to watch the sunset with a chilled G&T and delicious snacks.
Guests generally enjoy activities and meals together, something I really appreciated as a solo traveller. Volunteers and guides take turns to join guests for rides and meals, and I loved getting to meet people from all walks of life.
Each morning at Ant’s is a fresh adventure: guided bush walks, mountain bike rides, or leisurely horseback outings. The freedom to tailor each day was a real luxury. Ant’s caters to all riding abilities (although riders of different abilities will not be mixed unless you choose to be). Non-riders can relax by the pool, enjoy a massage or explore the reserve in other ways. As an avid rider, I opt for leisurely rides around the reserve, including one unforgettable morning when we ride into the dam for a swim with the horses. Being on horseback also allows us to get surprisingly close to animals. At one point, we find ourselves near a couple of sleeping rhinos, utterly unperturbed by our presence.
The reserve is home to over 40 species including giraffe, white rhino, sable antelope, roan antelope, buffalo, nyala, gemsbok, kudu, Livingstone eland, blue wildebeest, zebra, warthogs, baboons, brown hyena, jackal and leopard and I manage to spot the vast majority of them during my time here.
A true home away from home, Ant’s made me feel so welcome, and I can see why so many guests return time and time again.
There’s nothing better than sundowner drinks at Ant’s Nest.
Get close to wildlife whilst riding around the reserve at Ant Africa Safaris.
Enjoy a scenic hike from the Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa, Cape Town.
Visit some of the community projects that Uthando supports.
Peruse the local goods at Oranjezicht City Farm Market in Cape Town.
“Being on horseback also allows us to get surprisingly close to animals. At one point, we find ourselves near a couple of sleeping rhinos, utterly unperturbed by our presence.”
Cape Town Luxury at Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa
Continuing my journey, I caught a short flight to Cape Town and checked in at the renowned Twelve Apostles Hotel and Spa, perched above the Atlantic Ocean with views of Table Mountain and Lion’s Head. Just 10 minutes from the beaches of Camps Bay and 20 minutes from the V&A Waterfront, Twelve Apostles offers the perfect combination of relaxation and adventure.
I begin the day with breakfast on the terrace and a sighting of dolphins dancing across the bay. Before long, I am exploring the hotel’s famous spa, choosing from a dizzying array of treatments. I opt for a manicure and pedicure, all but the most relaxing one I’ve ever had, as I lie down with calming music and an eye mask on! The spa also has hydrotherapy pools, a flotation pool,a rasul chamber and two mountain gazebos for outdoor treatments with ocean views.
After spending the rest of the morning relaxing beside the pool overlooking the ocean, it’s off on a guided walk behind the hotel. Marked paths lead through the garden and up onto the mountain. I did around an hour’s loop accompanied by two members of the hotel team, appreciating the wildflowers and fantastic views.
One of the many things that sets the Twelve Apostles apart is the variety of experiences and activities they offer. For the adventurous, there’s an innovative Sports Buddies programme which pairs guests with a sporty member of the team who will join you on your chosen activity, whether that be squash or cycling, golf or jogging. They can pretty much organise anything from private tours of the Winelands or city to township tours, helicopter flights and day safaris. There are even bespoke fragrance workshops, foraging expeditions and gin-crafting experiences available.
I enjoy my own gin-tasting experience in the Leopard Bar, learning all about the Cape botanicals that make each spirit unique, followed by a stunning cocktail on the terrace as I watch the sky turn pink and orange over the glittering Atlantic Ocean.
Whilst the hotel has several restaurants to choose from, I enjoy a truly delicious dinner in the Azure Restaurant which champions local ingredients, in particular local seafood.
Being that bit further out from the main hustle and bustle of central Cape Town, The Twelve Apostles is the perfect spot to relax in style whilst enjoying delicious dining, exceptional sunsets, holistic wellness and authentic experiences.
Cape Town Culture & Community at Uthando
While Cape Town has many sights to offer, I felt strongly about engaging with the local community. I arranged a philanthropic excursion with Uthando, a certified non-profit that connects tourists with local development projects. Uthando offers meaningful, authentic, engaging and respectful visits to a broad range of innovative and inspiring community projects, whilst bringing enormous benefits to the local communities they support.
As we drive through the townships, our guide, Xolani, provides an in-depth overview of the history of South Africa, in particular the role that apartheid and institutionalised discrimination and inequality played in creating these communities. Our first stop is Ulwazi Educare, a kindergarten welcoming children up to 6 years of age. In 2022, thanks to generous Uthando donors, Ulwazi was able to open their brand new sustainable school building built from old car tyres, eco bricks and glass bottles. The enthusiasm of the teachers and the joy of the children is heartwarming.
The second project we visit is Feed the Khaltsha Organic Garden. Established in 2020, this garden, located behind the Sibongile Day and Night Care Centre for children with cerebral palsy, has gone from strength to strength. From supplying organic vegetables to the centre, it now sells vegetables to the community at large, growing from three initial beds of spinach to a 430 sqm garden with a variety of seasonal vegetables. It was inspiring to see entrepreneurship blossoming here, offering healthy food to the community and a sustainable income for these young growers.
Our final stop is Neighbourhood Old Age Homes (NOAH), which provides services to the elders of greater Cape Town. During our visit, we are entertained by the fabulous Khayelitsha Youth Choir. Formed in 2018, KYC aims to empower young people by providing educational and social support through music. The choir is a haven for members, providing a safe space for them as they face the trials and tribulations in their community. The beautiful sound they make is heavenly, and the joy with which they sing will stay with me for years to come.
I wholeheartedly recommend an experience with Uthando; it brought another dimension to my Cape Town adventure, highlighting the beauty and resilience of South Africa’s communities.
A visit to the Oranjezicht City Farm Market near the V&A Waterfront is another must. Supporting dozens of local farmers and food artisans, this lively market is a feast for the senses. The variety of different foods and crafts on offer is fantastic, and you are sure to come away with a few goodies. I picked up Cape Malay curry ingredients to bring a taste of South Africa back home.
Exploring the Winelands of Franschhoek
If you enjoy a spot of wine tasting, Franschhoek is sure to be at the top of your bucket list. Around an hour’s drive from Cape Town, Franschhoek is home to some of the best wineries in the country. It’s not all about wine though; there are many ways to enjoy the vineyards, from beautiful gardens to wander around, to wonderful restaurants and shops to explore. Many vineyards also offer paired tastings with foods such as cheese, biltong and chocolate. There are also olive oil and balsamic vinegar tastings and even juice tastings for children.
My first stop in Franschhoek is Babylonstoren, a 17th-century Cape Dutch estate with rolling vineyards and beautiful gardens to explore. I spend the morning wandering through the extensive fruit orchards, edible flower garden and prickly pear maze, before paying a visit to the farm shop with its homemade bread and charcuterie, the Milk Room with its water buffalo gelato and the Lekker Room for steaming coffee. I tour the wine museum and learn about the history and cultivation of wine before exploring the Scented Room, where you can blend your own bath salts, body scrubs and face masks.
Of course, a visit to Babylonstoren wouldn’t be complete without lunch at Babel, their signature restaurant with its proud farm-to-fork philosophy. We are brought spritzed asparagus spears to munch on and enjoy delicious wines and the most mouth-watering plates of food with ingredients from the historical garden – carrots have never tasted so good! There’s something magical about tasting food sourced directly from the gardens in front of you.
Wine tram in Franschhoek
Lunch at the Chef's Warehouse at Maison
The best way to explore Franschhoek is on the Wine Tram. Whilst there are several options, the Hop-on- Hop-off experience gives you the most flexibility. There are five different lines to choose from, each showcasing a different part of the valley. Once you have decided which vineyards to visit, it is important to curate your day to fit the tram’s timetable. The experience involves a combination of the tram and buses as you make your way to the different vineyards.
My first stop is Grande Provence on the blue line. I enjoy exploring the estate’s sculpture garden before sampling a glass of rose. Then it’s back on the tram to the Franschhoek Terminal to pick up the bus to take us to Le Bri. Here we indulge in a wonderful chocolate and wine pairing where three handcrafted dark Belgian chocolates are carefully selected to complement each of the decadent wines. The change in flavour after sampling the chocolate and tasting the wine was astounding. Our final stop is Maison Estate and lunch at Chef’s Warehouse. We sample several wines by the glass and enjoy a contemporary set menu of incredibly delicious dishes.
Reflecting on my South African safari journey, I am filled with gratitude for the diversity, hospitality, and resilience of this extraordinary country. South Africa’s landscapes are simply breathtaking, but it’s the people, their stories, and the connections made along the way that truly define the experience. Here’s to many more journeys full of wildlife, wine, and the warmth of South African hospitality!
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